Posted by: stader | October 28, 2009

Day 23 | Oct 28 | Jericoacoara

Jericoacoara, Brazil (wikipedia, map)

We had another delicious breakfast at the pousada this morning. The fruits are so fresh and sweet compared to the produce imported into Canada. They also had fresh made flan and passion fruit mousse – we’re starting to get used to desserts for breakfast!

Then we took a stroll thru Jeri. With all the roads being sand, it gives the town a very unique feel. Even some of the shops have elected to go with a sand floor, and almost all the restaurants are big sand boxes! We stopped at one small cafe on a very quaint side street to try some fresh juices. All the juices are 100% freshly squeezed – you can see them do it. We had four different juices: orange, lemon, pineapple, and one other that we never heard of and can’t remember the name of. All of them were excellent. Somehow the town has managed to combine a rustic laid back feel with a touch of class, no wonder so many people get hooked on this place and stay permanently.

Ray was feeling pretty rotten from his cold by this time, so we started inquiring about kiteboarding lessons for Marcy. Ray would probably just need to rest mostly for the remaining two days in Jericoacoara, and Marcy has always had a keen interest in kiteboarding anyway, so it seemed like a good solution to the situation. Marcy booked 7 hours of kiteboarding lessons, 3 hours for today, and 4 hours for tomorrow.

There was enough time for Marcy to check out the Pedra Furada before her kiteboarding lesson, while Ray went to the room to try and sleep.

The way to the Pedra Furada started the same, and the wind and sand were blowing just as fiercely as yesterday. After trekking along the ridge top for a while, there was a hill from which you could see a long strip of coastline where wind surfers were plying the waters. The walking continued until finally Marcy reached a wide well used path that led to the beach – surely it was the right trail. The hike continued along the beach for a while, but suddenly a cliff appeared with no way around it – perhaps at low tide it’s passable.

The only options at this point were to retrace her steps, or climb up and around the cliff. Going back is never any fun, so up and around the cliff Marcy went. It was a grueling climb up – hot, steep, and shifting sand made it tough climb up. Continuing on along the cliff top, Marcy finally reached a spot where a guy was selling water. Finally this was the right spot to go down, and sure enough the rock formation appeared. The formation was very interesting and worth the journey.

After buying a bottle of water from the water salesman with no money in her pocket, just a promise to leave the money for him at our pousada, Marcy started the trip back following the advice of the vendor by taking a much more direct and easier path back to town.

After a lunch at a beach restaurant (including a cute kitty who enjoyed some chicken with us), it was time for Marcy’s kiteboarding lesson! Marcy’s instructor, Adrianna, was an Argentinian woman from Buenos Aires who has lived in Jeri for 7 years. The first lesson was all about wind theory, safety and how to fly the kite (all on land). Adrianna was a great instructor. There was a lot of information to take in, but so far so good!

After sunset, Jeri’s atmosphere changes. The streets of sand are lit with elegant lights, the restaurants have a very cozy and romantic feel to them, and there is music playing everywhere you go: lounge music, blues, Brazilian Pop, and retro. The wind is considerably lighter in the evening and there is less traffic – a very charming place.

Dinner this evening was at “Carcara,” where we ate shrimp moqueca (a flavourful stew of fresh vegetables, herbs, and of course, shrimp). We met another guy from Germany who was in Jeri for the windsurfing. Jeri has been the most international destination we’ve been to in NE Brazil. People from around the world come here for the kiteboarding and windsurfing – some never leave…

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